Summiting Island Peak: Your Ultimate Adventure Guide

June 18, 2024 By Admin

Picture yourself standing at the top of 6,189m/20,305 ft,surrounded by the breathtaking views of the snow-capped mountain stretching as far as your eyes can .Now, also imagine that this dream-worthy adventure is within your reach,even if you’re a novice-climber.Welcome to the world of Island peak,where the thrill of mountaineering meets the accessibility of a beginner-friendly.

About Island Peak

Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, was first climbed in 1953 by a British expedition led by Eric Shipton.The name Island peak comes from its shape ,like an island surrounded by the ice when viewed from the nearby village Dingboche.Island Peak stands tall at an elevation of 6,189m(20,305 ft ) above seas level in Khumbu region.The peak’s shape is like a tall triangle with really steep sides which looks strong and cool which looks like it’s calling the climber from far away.On the clear day,climbers are treated with the clear views of iconic peaks such as,Lhotse,Nuptse and Ama Dablam etc.Like every other himalayan peaks , climbing Island peaks also poses difficulty as the steep snow and ice slopes,rocky ridges and glaciers test the skills and endurance of even the most seasoned mountaineers.Weather conditions can shift rapidly ,with snow storms,high winds and extreme temperatures posing additional challenges to climbers.

Yet for those who dare to take on the challenge,the rewards are unparalleled as the sense of achievement you get after climbing the summit and the views it offers from the top is undescribeable.Island peak is a mix of climbing plus trekking trekkers can trek up to Everest Base Camp and do some side hike to Kalapathar alt.5,644m so that your climbing to Island would be easier and it will be like acclimatization trek .Throughout the journey we will apply the technique “climb high, sleep low “ and on the final day of the summit we have to start our day in the very early morning at 1 am and we will reach the top at like 8 to 9 am ,it depends upon your pace .At the first part of the trek we will trek through the steep rocky terrain and crevasse-where you might find a ladder placed by the experience guide to help you safely navigate these challenging sections.


Why Climb Island Peak?

Island Peak is accessible to climbers with moderate experience compared to other high-altitude peaks in Nepal and is a great entry point for those who want to test their skills in a high-altitude environment without the extreme technical challenges of higher peaks.Standing at an elevation of 6,189m(20,305 ft) provides breathtaking views of iconic peaks like,Lhotse,Nuptse ,Thamserku ,Makalu and Ama Dablam.As the peak is near to Everest Base Camp trek route making it more popular among the climbers and trekkers.

One thing that makes Island Peak climbing special is the combination of its stunning natural beauty and diverse climbing route it offers.The ascent involves navigating a mix of snow,ice and rocky terrain The climb is not just a physical test but also mental one,requiring strength,endurance and proper acclimatization and pushing one’s personal limit.

With experienced climber guide by your side leading the way ensures climbers safety and essential guidance making it a journey full of rewarding and challenging.Climbers leave with the lasting memories and the sense of accomplishment after completing the ascent of Island Peak

What to Expect on the climb?

Embarking on Island Peak promises a thrilling adventure as you prepare for this journey,expect a perfect blend of physical challenge ,breathtaking scenery and cultural immersion.

Preparation and Acclimatization

Before you set off to climb Island peak,it’s important to spend some time acclimatizing to the altitude.You can trek to Everest Base camp alt.5364 m and Kala patthar viewpoint alt 5550m. or any other high-altitude area in order to prepare your body .Physical fitness is most as you climb there will be more demand of your strength,endurance and stamina so,make sure your body is prepared for it

Island peak Climbing route

The journey begins with a trek from Lukla,passing through the Sherpa villages and dense forests,gradually gaining altitude.As the climbers approach the Island base camp at around 5000m(16,404 ft) the landscape transforms into the rugged terrain with morines and glaciers.From the base camp,the climbing route ascends steeply towards High Cmap,where the climbers rest.Your climbing guide will give you basic training land it will also considered as the day for acclimatization

The summit of Island peak involves a diverse ranges of exciting climbing routes.The route includes steep section and crevasses which requires the use of ropes,crampons and ice axes.The challenging part of the trek is the final push to the summit as it involves climbing headwall and narrow ridge,which is physically demanding but will take you to the top of Island peak.

Through the journey ,experience Sherpa guides will provide you the support,ensuring you the safety and also offering the expert guidance while navigating the challenging terrain.After reaching to the summit of Island Peak at 6,189m(20,305 ft) rewards the climbers with that stunning views of,Lhotse 8,516m (27,940 ft) ,AmaDablam 6,812m(22,349 ft) and other surrounding mountains.While descending back to the base camp it allows climbers to have that sense of achievements and lifetime memory.

Guidance and Support

Throughout your journey to climb Island peak you’ll be accompanied by the experienced Sherpa guide .Their expertise and knowledge of the mountain is invaluable,ensuring the safety and providing the essential guidance on the technical aspects during the ascents,Guide have the crucial part as our professional guide will also assist with setting up climb,managing gear and navigating the trail .

From the initial stage to the High camp ,Sherpa plays a crucial role in selecting a route, negotiating steep ascents,traversing crevasses and navigating icy slopes.They assist in setting up necessary safety equipment like ropes and anchor points.During the final summit ,professional guide leads the way,they navigate challenging sections including the steep headwall and narrow ridges,ensuring that climbers uses the techniques and equipments to safely reach the peak.Throughout the climb ,Sherpa guides will constantly asses the weather conditions and monitor the health and well-being of the climbers.They also share the knowledge about the local traditions ,flora and fauna.

Breathtaking Scenery

As climbers ascend Island Peak,they are treated to some of the most breathtaking scenery the Himalayan have to offer,The journey begins with the lush green forests gradually transforming into rugged terrain as altitude increases.Along the way,views of snow-capped peaks such as Everest 8848 m (29,029 ft),Lhotse 8,516m (27,940 ft) Ama Dablam 6,812m(22,349 ft),Makalu 8,485m(27,838 ft), Cho Oyu 8,188m(26,864 ft),Pumori 7,161m(23,494 ft),Nuptse 7,861m(25,791 ft). As you move towards the High Camp,climbers will witness the dramatic play of light and shadow on the surrounding peaks during the sunrise and sunset.

Tips for success

Island peak climbing is considered as perfect for those who want to trek as well as test their climbing .Before conquering Mt.Everest climbers tend to climb Island peak in order to have that practical experience before going for Mt.Everest.The success rate of conquering Island peak is high if you have trek for couple of time and have that basic knowledge also.Our professional guide will also give you some basic training like familiarizing yourself with use of crampons,ice axes and ropes ,practice using fixed ropes,learning how to navigate crevasses etc before climbing the peak.There are various factors that are needed to take consideration of before embarking on the journey of conquering the Island peak.


Before Embarking on Island peak climbing climber have to be both Physically and Mentally fit .We recommend you to do some cardiovascular exercise like : Running,squats,cycling and focus on building the strength in your legs,core and upper body.Also don’t forget to maintain flexibility ,For mental preparation read article or magazine about the island peak climbing or blogs to familiarize yourself with the challenges and experience of other climbrers.This will help you build your mental resilience and prepare for your journey.


Before climbing Island peak there are different permit which climbers need to purchase ,which are necessary to ensure the safety and regulation of trekkers and climbers in the region.Here’s a detailed breakdown of the permits you will need:

1)NMA(Nepal Mountaineering Association)

Spring (March to May): USD 250 per person
Autumn (September to November) : USD 125 per person.
Winter (December to February): USD 70 per person.
Summer (June to August):USD 70 per person.

2) Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit:

Cost : NPR 3000 (approximately $ 30 USD ) per person.
This permit is required for entering the Sagarmatha National Park

3)Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit:

Cost:NPR 2000( approximately $20 USD) per person.
This local permit is required for trekking in the Khumbu region and can be obtained in Lukla or Monjo.

Professional Climbing guide:

Climbing Island peak is an exciting adventure,but it’s also a challenging one which requires a proper preparation and support.Having a professional climbing guide is essential for your safety as well as successful journey.These guides are experts in navigating the terrain ,understand the best routes and identifying potential hazards.Their knowledge of the mountain ensures that you make the safest and most efficient path to the summit ,while being prepared for any sudden changes in weather condition.

Safety is a top priority when climbing Island Peak and professional guides are trained in all the necessary technical skills.THey know how to use ropes,crampons and ice axes and can help you navigate tricky sections like crevasses and steep icy slopes.In case of emergencies such as accident or altitude sickness guides are equipped to provide first aid and coordinate rescue efforts if needed
Having a guide also makes the logistical aspects of your trip much easier.They handle all the necessary permits and paperwork.Additionally,guides manage your climbing equipment so you don’t have to worry about the carrying and setting up gear.Thier local knowledge and insights into the culture and environment enrich your experience ,making your climb not only about reaching the summit but also about appreciating the beauty and traditions of the regions.

Acclimatization for Island Peak Climbing

Acclimatization is a critical aspect of preparing for and successfully climbing Island Peak.Proper acclimatization helps your body adjust to the lower oxygen levels at high altitudes,reducing the risk of altitude sickness and increasing your chances of reaching the summit safely.The key to have that effective acclimatization is to ascend gradually.The trek to Island Peak usually starts with a trek to Everest Base Camp or other high-altitude destination like Dingboche.This slow ascent allows your body to adapt to the decreasing oxygen level .Follow the principle of “climb high,sleep low” as it is important for your body.This also means you can ascend to higher altitudes during the day but descend to sleep at lower altitude.

Make sure you include the acclimatization days in itinerary .During these day you can stay at the same altitude to allow your body t adapt before climbing higher.For example ,spending extra days at Namche Bazar or Dingboche ,where you can take days to hike to higher elevation and return to sleep can help your body acclimate better high altitudes.Drink plenty of water and Staying well-hydrated is crucial at high altitudes.Drink plenty of water and avoid drinking alcohol.Eat a balanced diet with enough carbohydrates to provide the energy needed for trekking and climbing.

Effective acclimatization is very essential for a successful and safe climb of Island Peak. By having acclimatization day ,paying attention to your body and drinking plenty of water will help Your body adjust to the high altitude,reduce the risk of altitude sickness and improve your climbing experience.

Experience organizer

Climbing Island Peak is thrilling and challenging adventure that requires thorough preparation,expert guidance and careful planning.An experienced organizer can make all the difference in ensuring your climb is both successful as well as safe.An experienced organizer has in-depth knowledge about the mountain terrain,weather patterns and optional climbing routes.This expertise ensured that every part of your climbing journey is planned properly whether it;s for the itinerary ,acclimatization or permits they make sure that you have a successful journey while fully being safe and enjoying the climb.Safety always comes firt whale climbing high altitudes and the Experience organizer prioritizes this by providing trained guides and support staff who are well-versed in the high altitude.

Before fully trusting organizers make sure they are government registered companies and read their reviews so that you can ensure their reliability .Checking for proper registration and positive feedback from the past clients helps you to avoid the potential sca,s and guarantee safety.

Nature Explore Trek is government registered company ,we have been organizing successful climbs and trek sice 2015.Our team of experienced guides,born and raised i the mountain,brings out the local knowledge and expertise to every expedition.We are committed to providing a safe ,enjoyable and unforgettable adventure for all our clients.With our trustworthy and dedicated service,your embark on your Island Peak climb with confidence,knowing you are in capable hands .

Gear and equipments

  • Crampons
  • Ice Axe
  • Base Layer -Thermal tops and bottoms
  • Fleece jacket or down jacket
  • Insulated pants
  • Waterproof and windproof jacket
  • Waterproof pants
  • Warm hats or beanie
  • Sun hat or cap
  • Buff or neck gaiter
  • Lightweight glives
  • Insulated,waterproof gloves or mittens
  • Trekking boots
  • Multiple airs of thermal socks
  • Liner socks to prevent blisters
  • Harness
  • Carabiners
  • Jumar
  • Belay Device
  • Helmet
  • Sleeping Bag
  • Sleeping pad
  • Tent
  • Large Backpack
  • Daypack
  • Trekking poles
  • Head lamp
  • Sunglasses
  • Water bottles
  • Water purification
  • First aid kit
  • Personal items-Toiletries,sunscreen,lip balm
  • Snacks-energy bar
  • Rope
  • Fixed Ropes
  • Map and Compass
  • GPS device
  • Satellite Phone
  • Camera
  • Power banks


When planning to climb Island Peak,having comprehensive insurance is crucial for safety and peace of mind. Your insurance policy should cover a minimum of $6000 .This insurance should cover high-altitude trekking and climbing including medical expenses,emergency evacuation by helicopter,trip cancellation and lost or stolen gear.As the climbing presents significant risks such as altitude sickness and accident having medical coverage and evacuation is essential.Having proper insurance by your side also makes you focus in the yur adventure without worrying about the financial burden incase of emergency.

When to Climb Island Peak?

Island peak can be attempted throughout the year,however monsoon season and winter are quite not suitable as in winter the cold can be challenging ,particularly for novice mountaineers.The mountain is not technically difficult but comfort with extreme winter conditions is essential.The ideal times to climb Island Peak are during the spring (March-May) ans autumn (September to November). Spring season is peak season so,you’ll likely encounter numerous expedition teams heading to Everest as this season offers milder temperature and beautiful blooming rhododendron which will foreshore enhance your trekking experience.

Autumn is another season which is popular to climb due to its clear weather and excellent climbing conditions.This period is also the peak tourist season in Nepal,While the trails can be bit crowded ,you are almost guaranteed favorable weather and optimal climbing conditions.
While winter ascents are possible,the extreme cold can be challenging ,especially for less experienced climbers .If your schedule doesn’t fit the traditional climbing seasons,an offseason climb can also provide a unique and rewarding experience.No matter when you choose to climb,Island Peak promises an unforgettable adventure.

Altitude sickness while climbing Island Peak

Climbing Island Peak (6,189m/20,305 ft) presents a significant challenges,not only due to its technical aspects but also because of the high altitude.Altitude sickness also known as Acute Mountain Sickness(AMS) is a common concern for climbers and trekkers at such elevation.Understanding and recognizing the symptoms ,prevention strategies and treatments is crucial for a safe and successful climb.
Altitude sickness occurs when your body cannot acclimatize quickly enough to the decreased oxygen levels at higher altitudes.Symptoms can be headache,Nausea or vomiting,Dizziness or lightheadedness,fatigue,Shortness of breath,loss of appetite and difficulty in sleeping.
Prevention of altitude sickness can involve various factors like making itinerary that is aligned with your body need.Don’t force yourself to trek/climb more thinking you can handle it or you push through it.Have that 3 to 4 days into your itinerary for the proper acclimatization .This will give your body the time it needs to adjust to the altitude reducing the risk of developing symptoms .Additionally,listen to your body take frequent breaks ,stay hydrated and avoid over walking/climbing.If you feel any symptoms then make sure you tell your guide about your condition.

Environment Responsibility

When climbing Island Peak,it’s important to take care of the environment .Follow the leave no Trace principles pack out all your trash and stick to marked trail Use eco friendly products and support local conservation efforts.By being mindful and respectful we can help to keep the himalayas beautiful and clean,preserving them for the future generation to enjoy.